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Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2531 by Garth
Teacher's Pet wrote: Thu Jul 24, 2025 1:48 pm Are there any useful/effective/easy ways to cool down an overheated PA?
Nifty heat sink hacks?

Curious if maybe clipping some extra metal gator clips to the heat sink might help dissipate more heat or something like that.
Or maybe just a fan?

I guess probably neither would really do shit, right?

I'm running sound at a scrappy outdoor DIY space and trying to make the most of what we've got.
The PA goes into thermal shutdown sometimes.
I think most important is that it doesn't get pushed too hard. I realize how silly that is to suggest considering how many dodgy PAs I've encountered at DIY spaces over the years, but even in hot outdoor conditions you're better off having more power on tap than you need as it won't be working as hard and less likely to go into thermal overload.

The above suggestions aren't BAD, but my gut says this is less important than the above. I think if I were add scrappy workarounds to the suggestions I'd make sure it stays out of direct sunlight if possible, most music gear is black, absorbs heat, etc.

If you try making use of a fan for additional cooling, make sure it's not interfering with existing fans on whatever box you're using. You could end up making the problem worse if air flow doesn't occur as designed.

Used PA gear is cheap-as-chips these days. Would strongly suggest more rig for the gig, it'll sound better too if it's not pushing into overload.

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2532 by Teacher's Pet
Thank you -- there's only a few weeks left in the lifespan of this place (barring any miracles) so we'll probably just tough it out with what we've got.

But I do have another related question (and I'm embarrassed to have to ask):
If the amp is powered on and turned way up -- but there's no signal/singing etc, is it busy working/overheating?
Or does it it need to be passing a signal (amplifying) to get all hot and bothered?

Turning it all the way off between sets should help a little... I guess that should be clear already...

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2535 by Nate Dort
Garth wrote: Thu Jul 24, 2025 1:16 pm Has anyone been inside the gunnyworks of old Peaveys? Do they have TWO death caps? And were death caps even used with amps that came with a grounded plug?

Here's my conundrum:
Some genius a long time ago replaced the grounded plug w/ a two-prong plug leaving the ground unused. I know the preferred move here is to replace the whole cable instead of the plug which is easy enough but when I opened it up, there are two caps coming off the legs of the switch so I immediately am hitting the brakes just in case these are death caps and should just be removed.

You can see the ground over to the upper right in the first photo but it does look like those caps are getting grounded to the chassis.
Image
Image

Should I snip these or just leave them on? Should I just hit the easy button and ditch the 2 prong replacement and put a 3-prong on with the existing cable? The cable on it doesn't seem to be very high-quality if I'm being honest so I think I'd prefer to replace the whole thing.

Lol, just noticed that lock washer that's been rattling around in there. Need to figure out what that went to as well I reckon
Only one of those caps is a traditional "death cap," the one actually connected to ground. That's the one that will put AC mains on the chassis if it shorts.

The other is a line-to-neutral filter cap, as it's not connected directly to ground. If that one shorts, it will blow the fuse, but it won't put AC mains on the chassis.

One thing to keep in mind is that both of those blue caps are film, not ceramic. They don't fail short, so the risk is extremely low either way.

I'd cut out the one on the right, leave the one on the left, put a three prong plug on the existing cable and call it a day.

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2537 by defendyachtrock
I’ve just moved apartments so this is absolutely not a serious plan for anytime soon, but let’s say I was looking for a tube amp. One specifically based on a blackface Fender topology but was able to break up much sooner than blackfaces usually do. I think I’ve honed in on the kind of dirty sound I like to be “dimed blackface.” What should I be looking for?

My bandmate has an Allen Encore, and the Allen Sweet Spot seems to be right up my alley as far as form factor goes, so I think I’d be looking for something similar.
Formerly FM kazoozak. Guy in Fake Canadian.

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2538 by Dr Tony Balls
defendyachtrock wrote: Mon Jul 28, 2025 4:37 pm I’ve just moved apartments so this is absolutely not a serious plan for anytime soon, but let’s say I was looking for a tube amp. One specifically based on a blackface Fender topology but was able to break up much sooner than blackfaces usually do. I think I’ve honed in on the kind of dirty sound I like to be “dimed blackface.” What should I be looking for?
This sounds like you want a BF/SF circuit that you can dime without being too loud. Like a Deluxe Reverb or something.

I played a show this weekend at Main Drag Music (where i've backlined amps) and my BF circuit was a hit for, I suspect, this very reason. Its basically the normal channel of a Super Reverb but with a 15 watt, 2xEL84 power section. A buddy that normally plays a Vibrolux was in love with the amp. Preamp-wise, a Vibrolux is not that different but this amp he got to turn up a bit more.
Website: http://ballseffects.com/
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Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2539 by benadrian
defendyachtrock wrote: Mon Jul 28, 2025 4:37 pm I’ve just moved apartments so this is absolutely not a serious plan for anytime soon, but let’s say I was looking for a tube amp. One specifically based on a blackface Fender topology but was able to break up much sooner than blackfaces usually do. I think I’ve honed in on the kind of dirty sound I like to be “dimed blackface.” What should I be looking for?

My bandmate has an Allen Encore, and the Allen Sweet Spot seems to be right up my alley as far as form factor goes, so I think I’d be looking for something similar.
Balls makes good points. I would also say that you can look for a Princeton Reverb as a well as a Deluxe Reverb. However, if you get a Deluxe Reverb, there is a bright cap on the vibrato channel that is like having the bringht switch always on. I hate it. It's easy to remove if you find the Vibrato channel too bright.

Allen Amps are great, at least the experience that I have with them 20+ years ago was great. The prices have gone up, while Silver Panel Fender prices have stayed about the same.

Finally, I've had good luck with using always-on, neutral boosts in front of Fender amps to get a good "cranked clean amp" sound at lower volumes. When I played my Pro Reverb in old bands. I would leave on my Crowther Hotcake or AMZ Mini Booster. When I'm using Fender amp models in Helix, I'll often leave on an EP Boost model before the amp when I'm playing a single coil guitars. The Klon does a great job is this regard as well; Karate vibes.

Oh, and all of these amps are still too loud for apartments, if the apartment commet implied that you wanted to use the amp at home.

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

2540 by Dr Tony Balls
benadrian wrote: Tue Jul 29, 2025 10:51 am I would also say that you can look for a Princeton Reverb as a well as a Deluxe Reverb.
The reason I left the Princeton out of this is because it (along with a Champ) is an outlier in the realm of what one would consider blackface Fenders. The cathodyne PI is gonna sound different than a LTPI, especially as it relates to breakup.
Website: http://ballseffects.com/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/thetonyballs/
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