scott wrote

Sorta on-topic... one of my EVM-15L's started making crummy noise. Turns out the cone has come unglued at the exterior perimeter along a stretch of about 3" or so, where it's glued to the flexible ring that attaches to the basket... what kinda glue is alright there? I was thinking even just crazy glue, but am obviously not looking to fuck it up any more than it already is, which is very little.


I spoke with the folks at Orange county Speaker Repair
(www.speakerrepair.com), they suggested rubber cement or elmers glue, something that will travel once it has set. glue the front and back of the tear. hope this will get you by.

justinw wrote:anyone know the main difference between the 15L & 15B?
and why some (15Ls) are rated at 200w and some 400w?

i gots to get me some o' them speakers...

I just found this discussion on the topic..

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/i ... 42438.html

i'm sure one of you guys can splain this dummy question of mine:

i have a 1 15" cabinet with an unknown brand speaker in it that's ripped. can i just get this kit to fix it? or, do i need to definitely have one of these nice EV speakers in there first?

i'm looking to get it fixed (or replaced perhaps with one of these nice speakers?) in the near future and welcome any suggestions.

or perhaps i should bid on this?

nick92675 wrote:i'm sure one of you guys can splain this dummy question of mine:

i have a 1 15" cabinet with an unknown brand speaker in it that's ripped. can i just get this kit to fix it? or, do i need to definitely have one of these nice EV speakers in there first?

i'm looking to get it fixed (or replaced perhaps with one of these nice speakers?) in the near future and welcome any suggestions.

or perhaps i should bid on this?

Recone kits are speaker-specific. Can't just drop in the EV kit into whatever.

I say you should get one of them EVs. They're the only 15" bass speaker I really like.

They have 200W and 400W . 400W are more expensive but more durable. I would overrate the speaker a little, esp if you will have any edge and/or extra low end to the bass sound.

awesome, thanks tim. also can anyone refresh me speaker impedence... if i have say 2 separate 8ohm cabinets running to a head - does that double the load the amp sees? so now it's seeing 16ohm? or is it 8 still?

real world scenario:

400 RB mk III head.

currently powering 8ohm 410 cab
proposing adding additional 8ohm 115 cab

head specs are 240w @ 4ohm, 150w @ 8.

thanks!

nick92675 wrote:awesome, thanks tim. also can anyone refresh me speaker impedence... if i have say 2 separate 8ohm cabinets running to a head - does that double the load the amp sees? so now it's seeing 16ohm? or is it 8 still?

real world scenario:

400 RB mk III head.

currently powering 8ohm 410 cab
proposing adding additional 8ohm 115 cab

head specs are 240w @ 4ohm, 150w @ 8.

thanks!

4 ohms if you use both spkr jacks in the back of the amp.

tmidgett wrote:

nick92675 wrote:awesome, thanks tim. also can anyone refresh me speaker impedence... if i have say 2 separate 8ohm cabinets running to a head - does that double the load the amp sees? so now it's seeing 16ohm? or is it 8 still?

real world scenario:

400 RB mk III head.

currently powering 8ohm 410 cab
proposing adding additional 8ohm 115 cab

head specs are 240w @ 4ohm, 150w @ 8.

thanks!

4 ohms if you use both spkr jacks in the back of the amp.

that sort of explains why when we plugged everything in everything was much cleaner, and louder sounding if the amp was putting out 240w then instead of its regular 150w.

with just the 410 the speakers were driven past the point of excusion and farting out, yet still not giving the SPL we wanted. it sounded great w/adding the 115 (different 115 than the one i'm proposing replacing).

nick92675 wrote:or perhaps i should bid on this?

I really wouldn't recommend that...


..actually, I'm bidding on the other one.

i just had the original evm 15l from my dietz cab reconed as it suddenly stopped making beautiful noise. when i got it back, the gasket which surrounds the surround (confusing enough?) was 'shorter' than it had originally been. i called the tech who did the recone and said that the gasket which was on there had been added after the fact. as in, mr. dietz put a 'taller' gasket on my speaker and maybe other speakers in his cabs.

the bad part is, due to the funky front mounting directly to the grill in dietz cabs, my newly shorter gasket makes it appear the travel of the cone will hit the grill. that can't be good. the speaker should be able to travel where it wants to travel, i would assume.

does this make any sense to anyone?

better, has anyone else encountered this or have a solution?

viggy wrote:i just had the original evm 15l from my dietz cab reconed as it suddenly stopped making beautiful noise. when i got it back, the gasket which surrounds the surround (confusing enough?) was 'shorter' than it had originally been. i called the tech who did the recone and said that the gasket which was on there had been added after the fact. as in, mr. dietz put a 'taller' gasket on my speaker and maybe other speakers in his cabs.

the bad part is, due to the funky front mounting directly to the grill in dietz cabs, my newly shorter gasket makes it appear the travel of the cone will hit the grill. that can't be good. the speaker should be able to travel where it wants to travel, i would assume.

does this make any sense to anyone?

better, has anyone else encountered this or have a solution?

I have had this problem.

I bought some corks at the hardware store and made new spacers for my grill. I moved it out about 1/4" or so, and the speaker didn't hit anymore.

Dunno how the Dietz is mounted, but you can probably make some kind of spacer somehow. If it's screwed in w/the speaker screws, you might have to decouple it from the speaker and screw it in w/separate screws.