I am working out a deal to buy an original Kramer ('77) with the aluminum neck. I was wondering how stable I could expect the neck to be, and if there were climate conditions I would need to worry about with regard to warping. Any replies are appreciated.

Also, does anyone know of any other quality aluminum neck guitar brands out there (except TBs) I have become really interested in there tone lately.

that better not be a black kramer bass with an aluminum neck missing some volume pot covers... - liam in my band had his stolen last week after a show. if it is please PM me... we have police reports/SNs, etc.

thanks,
nick

I have recently bought a '77 Kramer alu neck. I'm very impressed. Good sound to it, resonates very well but is definitely worth letting it naturally adjust before playing live.

Have you tried Tym guitars. I think he's in Australia. There's also Vacarro.

Will.

[quote="bent_christian"]I am working out a deal to buy an original Kramer ('77) with the aluminum neck. I was wondering how stable I could expect the neck to be, and if there were climate conditions I would need to worry about with regard to warping. Any replies are appreciated.
quote]

Keep it well below 1,200F degrees and it should be fine.

Aluminum is an excellent conductor and has good ductility. It expands and contracts - let it warm up to room before tuning. It shouldn't warp though, unless some force acted upon it should exceed it's yield strength. (ie: put the neck in a vise and push on the body real hard), or it is one of the weaker alloys.

It should be as stable as a wood neck. I've not had any problem with the wood necks on my nice guitars. And by nice I mean $300 and up.

I however, can't stand the feel of the kramer wood and aluminum strips on the back of the neck. Usually the stock Kramers don't sound all that hot to my ears.

Now I'm not a big fan at all of aluminum as a material for bicycle frames. Give me Chromoly any day.

Ben Adrian
SF, CA

benadrian wrote:It should be as stable as a wood neck. I've not had any problem with the wood necks on my nice guitars. And by nice I mean $300 and up.


Now I'm not a big fan at all of aluminum as a material for bicycle frames. Give me Chromoly any day.

Ben Adrian
SF, CA

Depends on the application. Steel is superior for sure, but I'm into my frame (Santa Cruz Chameleon) - I like the stiffness of heavy duty AL frames for mountain biking. I don't like very thin AL frames, they are too prone to disasterous failure. I would go with 4130 cromo for a road frame or a dirt jumper for sure.

Steel frames are a forgotten choice to many people, which is sad.

bomberz1qr20 wrote:
Depends on the application. Steel is superior for sure, but I'm into my frame (Santa Cruz Chameleon) - I like the stiffness of heavy duty AL frames for mountain biking. I don't like very thin AL frames, they are too prone to disasterous failure. I would go with 4130 cromo for a road frame or a dirt jumper for sure.

Steel frames are a forgotten choice to many people, which is sad.

Growing up on BMX bikes, anything other than 4130 chromo was a joke and would bea easily destroyed. I've had a couple aluminum bikes, a BMX cruiser, and mountain bike, and they never felt right to me. I just got a '76 or '77 Raleigh Super Course Mk II with Renoylds 531 chromo, and that bike feels right.

ben adrian
sf, ca