put a 2x10 bass cab back together. I got a pair of Eminence basslite 2010's and an unloaded avatar 2x10 cab. Had to rebuild the crossover 'cause the PCB was fucked. Was able to use most of the original components though I had to replace the L-pad. Ordered an eminence BGH25-8 tweeter got it all put together and it works great. Finally got to actually test my Ampeg SVT-III non-pro (amateur?)

Now I just need to fix the wiring in my bass. It's got a Seymour Duncan Music Man pickup with the active pre, and something aint right. I think the pre is cutting in and out, or there's a bad connection somewhere.

Got a Sony CP-3 Power supply on the way, it's the second iteration of the power supply for the Sony C-37A. I don't have a C-37A, but I have 2 C-37P's (fet version) and a capsule from a C-38A, which I'm told is the same as the C-37 capsule, but with a slightly different tuning. The C-37A is just a capsule, a tube and 3 resistors in the body, so I figure I could DIY one. Tonelux makes a modern reiteration of the C-37A and the body looks pretty close to the original (moreso than the Mojave version), I emailed them asking if they'd sell an empty body. They will, for a surprisingly reasonable $75 with the yoke mount, and they'll put me in touch with their head engineer who has advice on the exact build I have in mind.

Un music related:
Replaced the battery in my phone with one from my dad's olde phone. No cost repair. I hate changing phones so yay.

I'm suping up my ebike (Jetson bolt pro) it's a cheap little bike from costco. I got a new motor from aliexpress that's rated 36-72V 2000-3500W to replace the 36v 300W stock motor, and a controller that can handle 80amps. I got everything to build a new battery pack, but just haven't had the time to work on it yet. Battery will be 48V ~10 AH, and can dump the 80A continuous current easily. It's gonna be rad as hell and probably dangerous, as it should be.

Oh you know I’m enamored with those Sony mics. I’m glad to hear the Toneluxes are closer looking as they are way cheaper than the Mojaves. I hope they perform similarly

I’m in another buy/sell phase, and if I can raise enough funds to offset some other purchases, I may try for another C38B, but those and the AT4060a (that I also need a second to complete the pair) seem to have all been listed for lots of $. Funnily enough, both mics go for stupid money new.

I have to stop myself from using the Sony C38B a lot of times since its works on any instrument, but really, why should I? Apparently John Wood loved them and they saw a lot of use in front of Nick Drake and Sandy Denny. Ken Scott used them on snare and Jim O’Rourke liked them too!

Great mics, plus I think they’re beautiful.

Seen that I have posted in the wrong thread so I'm trying to remedy that. Sorry Jury, I didn't know that's only your thread. Deleting my posts there.

Lu Zwei wrote: Sat May 03, 2025 8:37 am

Lu Zwei wrote: Wed Jun 19, 2024 2:26 pm
I went with walnut! It felt "irght" to me.

Sooooooooo, funny story short, I have finally completed my little project that maybe took too much, but the reward is enormous!

I have a bit more work to do, put my Selmer MKII into this top box as well, and then put my Quilter Tone Block 202 into this little bad boy!

Finally decided to house my Selmer inside the new box. It's really robust. Will be mounting the plexi front in the next couple of days. I think I will let the back side be open for "cooling" purposes.

HERE WE GO!!!!

I've been getting back into building pedals after 5 or so years off with young kids. The latest is a Deep Blue Delay. I used to use double stick tape to hold down the boards, but inevitably those fail and lose adhesion. On an earlier build I drilled and tapped holes in the lid for threaded standoffs, but that was a pain in the ass. This time I sketched and printed up a bracket held in place by the pots and it worked surprisingly well. It also makes off-board wiring a breeze as it can be done outside of the enclosure.

That’s a pretty elegant solution. I like it.

fwiw, if you don't want to go to the trouble of printing (though that does like slick as hell), blue tack works really well to hold stripboard in place.

Elegant solution and not too dissimilar from the brackets sola sound used in the 60's!




FWIW I use a heavy duty foam double stick tape like this*. It's strong, thick, and removable if needed. I've used this method on over 1000 pedals and found it to be plenty fine.



* only exception being things with BIG circuit boards...then its screws and standoffs time.

Dr Tony Balls wrote: Sat Dec 06, 2025 7:48 am Elegant solution and not too dissimilar from the brackets sola sound used in the 60's!

FWIW I use a heavy duty foam double stick tape like this*. It's strong, thick, and removable if needed. I've used this method on over 1000 pedals and found it to be plenty fine.

* only exception being things with BIG circuit boards...then its screws and standoffs time.

Those Sola sound brackets are beautiful, I know I've seen them before so I probably unconsciously cribbed from them. I used to use the white 3m foam tape and it would work most of the time, but I had a couple issues with boards coming loose in pedals using this method at shows that made me want to figure something else out. If anyone else wants the .STL file I can share it, right now I just have one drawn for 125B's but I'll be working on a 1590B and 1590BB at some point.