I think the big box maple and oak are just the faces and it’s a birch core. A piece of 3/4” 4x8 birch is still heavy!

I’ve used a lot of 3/4 commercial birch plywood and and a bunch of 1/2” Baltic and the Baltic with the thinner, better made laminations seems as good a material as the 3/4 for most stuff. With 3/4” you have a larger join surface though, which may be a factor?, depending on your joinery choices.

Wood dork here - detail shots in this video https://youtu.be/lxojJXBWJmQ?si=wZOqNZjrv7Sv0UmW

Anyone else most likely poplar cabinet grade plywood with lots of air in the laminations, ie: shitty to work with unless you're doing the whole thing with a CNC , but if you're covering it and you can get by, great. I've been in some cabinet factories in China and they had fantastic Russian baltic birch and total trash ply... whatever the customer spec'ed.

Here, the shittiest of the shit is Lowes/HomeDepot (unless for some reason your local gets in decent stuff) but I haven't seen plywood worth working with there in many years.


On that its worth noting that just like with plywood, laminate used for guitars varies drastically in degrees of quality

Anyone interested in a Soundcraft Spirit Digital 328 mixing board my old bandmate is giving away?
It dates roughly from around 2002 and was well-maintained. Was last used for live sound a couple years ago.
Pickup in the northwest suburbs. DM if interested. Thanks.

I have an old Red Oktava Capsule where the internal housing of the capsule seems to have come apart -

It's one of these
https://reverb.com/item/8443099-red-mic ... psule-blue

The capsule itself still seems to be in good working order - any suggestions on how to properly mount the capsule within the metal housing?

Okay, here's a weird and specific one in case someone has an insight:

My buddy brought his Squire bass VI to put a bass part down on a recording. We had it in DI and gradually noticed a strange sound. On the D string, with a single sustained note, there was a weird, wavery, vibrato/tremolo type sound. We couldn't figure it out. Only on one string.

He tried different pickups, I unpatched the compressor I had in, moved it to a different DI/preamp, nothing made it go away. So weird.

It almost reminded me of when you tune a guitar old school, with the fifth fret, both strings resonating, as it gets close you hear the pitch phase waver more slowly. It was kind of like that, but the waver didn't change speed and happened on a single string.

What in the physical resonance of the instrument could do that? It could be in the electronics, but doubtful because it clearly appeared on one string at different frets but no other strings, even playing the same pitch.

Change strings?

I've had this happen when the bridge saddle slot is too loose for the string, either through wear or through being sized for a larger string. The G string on my old ovation magnum did this.

I guess it could happen at the nut side too, but you'd only hear it when you weren't fretting in that case.

Nate Dort wrote: Fri Apr 03, 2026 7:26 am I've had this happen when the bridge saddle slot is too loose for the string, either through wear or through being sized for a larger string. The G string on my old ovation magnum did this.

I guess it could happen at the nut side too, but you'd only hear it when you weren't fretting in that case.

This is the best explanation yet. Fretted notes do it so the saddle is worth looking at.

Oh, and if it's relevant, it has a new set of flat wounds on it.

Has anyone used any of those doofy Wingman knobs on a pedal? I want to be able to toggle my DOD Carcosa between rhythm and lead volumes, my board is way too tight to fit a boost pedal and I don’t think the pedal I want instead exists in production (what if a Carcosa, but with a footswitchable volume boost and oriented horizontally like a Zvex). The low-tech idea is to put a Wingman on the volume knob and I can move between rhythm and lead volume levels without having to bend over my board.

I was playing bass the other day with a friend at his place. He has an old Ampeg 8x10 (cool!) but it was intermittent (not cool!). Wiggling the 1/4” jack seems to be the culprit.

From the outside, it looks like the cab uses a long barrel jack like this:

https://a.co/d/0a7SeuZc

There’s another hole drilled in the cab just above for what seems to be a second, similar jack wired in parallel but it’s just an empty hole.

Is this Switchcraft #151 the correct part to use? It seems like a little wimpy to put 300 watts through.

Again, this cab has just 2 holes in the back. No jack plates, and the holes aren’t big enough to use those goofy 4 pin jacks the very old 8x10s had.

How would you fix this?


Edit: my buddy will never get around to fixing this himself, so if I want to play a nice bass rig, it’s on me to fix it. It would be better to not have to modify the cab, but if enlarging the hole for a jack plate is better, we could do that.