This is probably a very familiar topic with the Electrical folks as well as most of the participants here. I've got a Beyer M500 and an ancient Beyer M160 (actually re-branded as a Straesser M200 w/ highly unpopular Tuchel connector) that are candidates for re-ribboning. The 160 was actually re-ribboned with 77DX stock by Stephen Sank which I like, but its extremely dark character impacts its versatility. Anyway, what's the most reliable source for re-ribboning Beyer mics? I went to their web site, but it's a goddamn train wreck (even the English version lapses into German at the drop of a hat) and I can't locate any Customer Service contact info.

I know Sank does re-ribboning on RCA models and Wes Dooley handles the 4038 work - anyone else I should add to my reliable repairs list?

I've also got a bunk Altec 175 (and a matching bunk 525a - shock) that needs a little more TLC than I am qualified to give it (should have paid more attention in EE lab). I've heard conflicting reports about Bill Hayes' work - any empirical data?

Thanks,

Dan Mohr

Beyerdynamic re-ribbons their mics for less than you would expect. I had two of my M 160 re-ribboned two years ago. If my memory serves me right I payed not more than 50 Euro (55 US $) for each. I could check the bill if you're interested. I live in Germany so the shipping wasn't that expensive as well. Give them a try, right an email to Beyerdynamic, they speak english.
Good luck, max.

Clarence Kane's company Enak has been our ribboning king for a long time. He will do any ribbon mic, but mostly RCAs. He'll completely checkout and repair the mic (ribbon, missing parts, new wiring).
He repaired a M160 for us a while ago, and it sounds fine. I don't know if he has a good source for parts or if he improvised.

For the Coles mics, we send them to Coles when we have about 4 blown.

AEA also re-ribbons both RCA and Coles.

They all cost from $150-$200 per job usually. That is unless there is more broken than just the ribbon.

Thanks for the recommendations - if Beyer doesn't return my email, I'll give Mr. Kane of Pitman, NJ a call.

Do you guys (Electrical) service your Altecs (1xx's) yourselves or send them out? They seem kind of flaky and I don't often see them used in working condition - especially the power supply - which would lead me to believe that they're not the world's most reliable microphone. I've never personally known anyone who had them (let alone had them fixed), so my leads on a reputable repair job for mine are shaky at best.

Thanks again,

Dan

I had Beyerdynamic UK recondition an M201 for me a while back, and they were great. Very friendly and competent, and very reasonable.

Do you guys (Electrical) service your Altecs (1xx's) yourselves or send them out? They seem kind of flaky and I don't often see them used in working condition - especially the power supply - which would lead me to believe that they're not the world's most reliable microphone. I've never personally known anyone who had them (let alone had them fixed), so my leads on a reputable repair job for mine are shaky at best.

I'll repair anything up to the capsule. If that's ruined, your kinda screwed.
We don't have a go-to guy for custom capsule replacement unfortunately. Other than that, Altec tube mics are pretty simple. The problem is usually with old connections, caps, cable, and tube (which thankfully is a cheep one). They (150s and 175s) have been the most problematic of our tube mic arsenal, but they are used in every session it seems.[/quote]

how often do you blow a 4038 and under what circumstances?

also, what's your opinion(s) of the 4038 in blumlein on drums (did I spell that right)?

ben adrian
basking in nice mics at my new job

Bump... three questions:

1. The XLR on my beyer M 160 is removed and both wires, a yellow and a green, are detached. which goes to pin 2 and which goes to pin 3?

2. what should the mic read when putting a Ohm meter across the different pins?

3. I just purchased a M 130 to use with this mic in M/S... It has always sounded fine but on a few occasions has sounded over-stressed... would it be worth having it re-ribboned by Beyer? I've had this mice for about 7 years.

Thanks,
D

TheMilford wrote:1. The XLR on my beyer M 160 is removed and both wires, a yellow and a green, are detached. which goes to pin 2 and which goes to pin 3?

I have a spec. sheet for some of the Beyer ribbon transformers - let me see if I can dig it out and find out.

2. what should the mic read when putting a Ohm meter across the different pins?

Do not do this! Your mic won't like it. The current from your multimeter will be stepped-up by the mic transformer which then causes the ribbon to push out by quite a fair amount. It's probably not lethal, but don't do it in the same way you wouldn't blow into the mic.

3. I just purchased a M 130 to use with this mic in M/S... It has always sounded fine but on a few occasions has sounded over-stressed... would it be worth having it re-ribboned by Beyer? I've had this mice for about 7 years.

Hard to say since I don't know how much it's been used. It could be ok if it's not been used much, but if I had to guess then I'd say it'd probably sound better with a fresh ribbon - lack of bass or treble is sometimes a giveaway too.

Thanks Rodabody!

I have to admit I did put my meter across pins 2 and 3.

Hope I didn't fuck my mic... anyway it read about 30ohms.

I soldered the yellow wire to pin 2 and the green to pin 3... I can always swap them later.